Sunday, January 7, 2018

Can you spot the fake 1967 Topps card?

     My 1967 Topps set is slowly closing in on completion with 21 high-number cards left to go.  One of those missing high-number cards is Brook Robinson #600.  Even though the Beckett BV for this card is $250, finding one of these for 10%-20% BV ($25-$50) seems nearly impossible to do online.  Over the past few years I've seen them for as low as 24%-30% BV ($60-$75), but lately, finding one for under 40% BV ($100) seems to be a major task.  I've noticed that common high-numbers from the 1967 Topps set tend to bottom out at 40% BV, but generally, star cards can usually be found for half the BV percentage of commons in lower grades.  That doesn't seem to be the case for 1967 Topps 7th Series.

     While going through one of my typical online scans through the 1967 Topps set for my missing cards, I came across a #600 Brooks Robinson fake listed as a reprint for a total of $2 shipped.  Since this is a highly counterfeited card which looked completely real to me online, I decided to throw away the $2 on one of these counterfeits to see how difficult it would be for me to recognize.  As I suspected, it was not difficult at all for me to spot out this counterfeit. 

     Original cards from the '60s don't have smooth glossy backs like the fake card I received.  The fake seems like it would repel water for a lot longer than an original '60s card, which tend to have a rougher, dryer, and grainier back that seems like it would absorb water like it was thirsty and would discolor when wet.  The fake doesn't seem like it would discolor when wet.  The side of an original card is double-ply and brownish, while the side of the fake is single-ply and white.  The scan of the card backs above makes it look like the B.Robinson card color stands out from the others, but actually it does not.  Card color is not really a factor in determining this card is a fake (unless you scan it I guess).  The last thing that really stands out is the photo quality of the card front and back looks photocopied.  This counterfeit card shouldn't fool anyone even mildly familiar with handling 1967 Topps cards.   
     Since I don't buy graded cards (or I crack them if I do), one of the things I tend to avoid are perfectly-cut and centered cards for high-valued star cards.  Print defects and other imperfections help me to authenticate my own purchases.


  1. I almost went this route when working on this set. Waited it out and got the real deals

  2. Perfectly pristine vintage cards just don't seem real. They have to have a little "personality".

    Nice build. I'm down to Mantle, Berra, and Duke Snider myself.